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Some Frequently Asked Questions Regarding Radon Mitigation & Testing

FREQUENTLY ASKED RADON TESTING QUESTIONS

What is radon?
What is a "picocurie" (pCi/L)?
Why is Radon System's test better than others?
I did my own passive radon test. Are the radon test results accurate?
What do my radon test results mean?
My house has been closed up. Does that make the radon test results higher?
I have a new house, so can I have a radon problem?
Could my granite countertops be a significant radon gas source in my house?

FREQUENTLY ASKED RADON MITIGATION QUESTIONS

What is radon?
Is it a conflict-of-interest to use the same tester and mitigator?
How much does radon mitigation cost?
What is the most commonly used method to reduce radon levels?
We do not have a crawl space so can we still have radon?
Will sealing the cracks reduce the radon levels?
How long does it take to install the radon mitigation system?
Will my radon system also have other benefits?
How long will my radon fan last?
If we use our crawl space for storage, will we still be able to use it after installation of a mitigation system?
My monometer on my radon system is nearly at "zero". Should I be concerned?

Radon Information: Myth or Fact?

Myth or Fact?   Scientists aren't really sure if radon is a problem. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     Although some scientists dispute the precise number of deaths due to radon, all major health organizations (like the Centers for Disease Control, the American Lung Association, and the American Medical Association) agree with estimates that radon causes thousands of preventable lung cancer deaths every year. This is especially true among smokers, since the risk to smokers is much greater than to non-smokers.

Myth or Fact? 		 
Radon testing is difficult, time-consuming, and expensive. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     Radon testing is inexpensive and easy - it should take only a little of your time.

Myth or Fact? 		 
Radon test kits are not reliable and are difficult to find. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     Reliable test kits are available through the mail, in hardware stores and other retail outlets. Call your state radon office for a list of test kits companies that have met EPA requirements for reliability or are state-certified.

Myth or Fact? 		 
Homes with radon problems can't be fixed. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     There are simple solutions to radon problems in homes. Thousands of homewoners have already fixed radon problems in their homes. Radon levels can be readily lowered for about $500 to $2,500. Call your state radon office for a list of contractors that have met EPA requirements or are state-certified.

Myth or Fact? 		 
Radon only affects certain kinds of homes. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     House construction can affect radon levels. However, radon can be a problem in homes of all types: old homes, new homes, drafty homes, insulated homes, homes with basements, or homes without basements.

Myth or Fact? 		 
Radon is only a problem in certain parts of the country. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     High radon levels have been found in every state. Radon problems do vary from area to area, but the only way to know your radon level is to test.

Myth or Fact? 		 
A neighbor's test result is a good indication of whether your home has a problem. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     It's not. Radon levels vary from home to home. The only way to know if your home has a radon problem is to test it.

Myth or Fact? 		 
Everyone should test their water for radon. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     While radon gets into some homes through the water, you should first test the air in your home for radon. If you find high levels and your water comes from a well, contact a lab certified to measure radiation in water to have your water tested.

Myth or Fact? 		 
It's difficult to sell homes where radon problems have been discovered. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     Where radon problems have been fixed, home sales have not been blocked or frustrated. The added protection is, sometimes, a good selling point!

Myth or Fact? 		 
I've lived in my home for so long, it doesn't make sense to take any action now. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     You will reduce your risk of lung cancer when you reduce radon levels, even if you've lived with a radon problem for a long time.

Myth or Fact? 		 
Short-term tests can't be used for making a decision about whether to fix your home. This is a MYTH!
FACT:     A short-term test followed by a second short-term test may be used to decide whether to fix your home. However, the closer the average of your two short-term tests is to 4pCi/L, the less certain you can be about whether your year-round average is above or below that level. Keep in mind that radon levels below 4 pCi/L still pose some risk. Radon levels can be reduced in most homes to 2 pCi/L or below.
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ANSWER

Radon is a cancer-causing, radioactive soil gas. It is colorless, odorless, and tasteless. Radon is estimated to cause thousands of deaths each year. When you breathe radon-contaminated air, you are increasing your risk of lung cancer. In fact, the U.S. Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today--just behind smoking. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.



















ANSWER

No. As long as the company is licensed and certified as both a tester and a mitigator, the company can legally provide both. Radon Systems is licensed in the State of Ohio and is certified by NEHA (National Environmental Health Association) as a radon tester and mitigator. All testing and radon mitigation services provided by Radon Systems meet all standards and applicable building codes.



















ANSWER

The average radon mitigation is installed for under $1,000. Some homes require multiple mitigation techniques and/or systems so the cost will be different. In new homes, the cost to install a passive system is less since the system is installed during construction. Radon Systems performs a thorough building investigation prior to initiating any radon mitigation work, and each system is designed for that structure based on that information collected.



















ANSWER

Sub-slab depressurization is the most common and most reliable radon reduction method. This method prevents radon from entering your home by drawing radon from beneath the house and venting it with a fan to the outside where it is diluted. Should multiple foundations exist, all areas in contact with the soil should be treated.



















ANSWER

Yes. Radon can move through a concrete slab, through block, concrete walls, or any other building material in the home. If you have a radon source under the slab, you could have an elevated radon level in the home.



















ANSWER

No. Sealing of wall and floor cracks is never a stand alone radon technique. Radon is a gas; therefore, as a gas, it can move through a concrete slab. Sealing does make a radon mitigation system work better. The results of sealing will be less air being drawn into the system which will result in a quieter and less expensive system to operate.



















ANSWER

Most radon reduction systems can be installed in just a few hours. Since Radon Systems has installed thousands of systems over the years, we are extremely efficient with our installations. All Radon Systems technicians have been thoroughly trained in the proper installation of radon reduction systems required in the EPA Radon Mitigation Standards and are full-time employees. We can provide a licensed electrician on system installations to wire the fan according to all local or national electric codes where required.



















ANSWER

Yes. Some of the comments we frequently hear from our customers are: “the dehumidifier seems to run less”; “the house feels cleaner”; and “the musty smell in the basement is gone.”



















ANSWER

The fan manufacturer warrants their fan for five years from the date it is installed. However, we frequently test and service some of our existing radon mitigation systems that we installed in the 1980’s. The secret to extended fan life is to keep the fan operating continuously. If the system is turned off, the bearings cannot be lubricated; and the fan can be affected by increased moisture in the fan components. When that happens, the life expectancy of the fan is greatly reduced.



















ANSWER

Yes. However, after mitigation, try to keep all storage at least one foot from exterior walls. This will keep you from pulling the plastic off the wall. Should the plastic ever be ripped or holes developed, simply duct tape over the damaged areas. This will reduce the amount of air being drawn into the system in general. It is highly recommended that a pad, such as cardboard, old carpets, etc., be placed at the crawl entrance where most damage is likely to occur.



















ANSWER

No. The u-tube monometer is an indicator of the pressure that is created by the active radon mitigation system — not an indication of the radon level. Depending on many variables, you could have higher or lower pressures indicated on the u-tube. Generally, the tighter the soil, the higher the pressure; and the more porous the soil (gravel, drain tile, and/or crawl spaces), less pressure would be indicated. It is also possible for tight damp soil to dry out over time with a radon system which could result in less pressure than before. This does not mean that the radon system is not working. Because the pressure is always changing, a radon test is the only method to check the effectiveness of the radon mitigation system.



















ANSWER

Radon is a cancer-causing, radioactive soil gas. It is colorless, odorless, and tasteless. Radon is estimated to cause thousands of deaths each year. When you breathe radon-contaminated air, you are increasing your risk of lung cancer. In fact, the U.S. Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today--just behind smoking. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.



















ANSWER

A picocurie represents radon measurement units. By definition, one picocurie is 2.22 disintegrations per minute within a liter of air.



















ANSWER

Regardless of the radon test method used (active or passive), the purpose of any radon test is to identify elevated radon levels. At Radon Systems, we use Femto-Tech continuous radon monitors, which are active tests. These state-of-the-art radon monitors provide an accurate 48-hour radon test. Additional data such as barometric pressure, relative humidity, temperature, and tampering are also indicated on the printout, which is available on site. Because of these advantages, and a requirement to be licensed to conduct the test, using a continuous radon monitor is always more accurate, quicker, and more expensive than a passive radon test.

Passive radon testing devices do not need power to function. These include charcoal canisters, alpha-track detectors, charcoal liquid scintillation devices, and electret ion chamber detectors, which are available in hardware, drug, and other stores—they can also be ordered by mail or phone. These devices are exposed to the air in the home for a specified period of time and then sent to a laboratory for analysis.



















ANSWER

Radon levels can change by natural forces in the environment, such as high winds or abrupt changes in barometric pressure. Because laboratory analysis and radon reports are based on radon concentrations which existed only at the time of the radon monitoring, decisions relative to additional testing and/or mitigation should take these factors into consideration.



















ANSWER

The EPA action level is 4pCi/l. That does not mean that 3.9 pCi/l is safe. In fact, no amount of radioactivity is without risk. Therefore, the goal with respect to elevated radon levels is to have radon levels inside the building equal the radon levels naturally in the outside environment, which is typically between 0.4 - 0.8 pCi/l. If your radon level is 4 pCi/l or greater and depending on the type of test you took, you should either test again or mitigate the home. If a passive test was used during a real estate transaction, then you must take the average of two passive tests conducted simultaneously in one location. If a continuous radon monitor is used for the radon test and the test result is above 4 pCi/l, it is recommended that the home/building be mitigated.



















ANSWER

No. To assume that, then you would also have to believe that a house has no air exchange. In reality, the average home leaks about one air change per hour. One air change per hour means that all the air in the house is exchanged every hour. As long as the EPA measurement protocols are followed, the radon measurement will not be influenced by a house that has been closed up for an extended period.



















ANSWER

Yes. Radon does not know the difference between a new house and an old one. In fact, radon is everywhere. Radon gas is constantly moving through the soil and into the outdoor environment where it is diluted. By placing a house/building over the radon source (the soil), radon will accumulate to potentially high levels and be drawn into the house/building, increasing the risk for developing lung cancer.



















ANSWER

Materials inside a building such as concrete, granite, slate, marble, sand, shale and other stones can also contain traces of radium that release radon with varying intensities. While natural rocks such as granite may emit some radon gas, the subsequent levels of radon in the building that are attributable to such sources are not typically high. The contribution from building materials to the indoor radon concentration is very dependent upon the building ventilation rate.
CLICK HERE to read the entire report from the American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists.